Engelberg, Switzerland to Engstelenalm

Engelberg to Jochpass to Engstelenalp
Distance: 6.8 miles/~11 km
Elevation Gain: 1210 meters/3969 feet
Highest Elevation: 2210 meters/7250 feet
Dogs: unspecified
Difficulty: Hard

Today's guest blog post is set in the Swiss Alps outside of Luzern, Switzerland and stars myself, Katie Young, and fellow hikers/Europe explorers Koko, Grant, and Natalie. Our first few days in Switzerland had been grey and cloudy and we had yet to glimpse the beautiful mountains for which Switzerland is so famous. As we ran to the train station to catch the train into Engelberg the sun was shining. As we traveled by train the clouds parted and we caught our first glimpse of beautiful mountains surrounding lakes and towns.

We arrived in Engelberg around 11:30 and our first stop was at the information center to determine if our planned route was the best way to reach our destination: a mountain hut in Engstelenalp. The lady assisting us pointed out the recommended route and then pointed to the latter section of the trail and said that part of it was closed due to snow. We asked if it was dangerous or if she thought we could pass and she said it was not dangerous, just be prepared for snow. She also mentioned that the area was expecting rain around 17:00. After a brief discussion between the four of us it was decided to continue as planned and if conditions got too bad we would turn back and find an alternate route.

We walked along a gravel road running parallel with a crystal clear river, sun shining hot on our faces. We came to our first set of trail markers and followed our trail up along a dirt road running between houses until we were eventually led through the woods up a steep path. We topped off at a road on a hillside. Large, steep rock faces served as a backdrop between us and the fields full of grazing cows. The cow bells around the necks of every cow created a low buzzing hum all arond. As we followed the trail we came to a roped off pasture full of cows, some butting heads with each other. The trail ran directly through this cow pasture. Koko and Natalie forged ahead through the pasture. Grant and I were a little leery about walking through a field of cows that may kick us or knock us into a pile of poop so we attempted to walk around. Grant placed a hand on the surrounding fence and after a minor shock, determined that it was electrified. Yikes! I decided to brave the cattle. Grant passed under the fence with a less shocking experience this time. We all met on the other side of the pasture mostly unscathed.

We hiked over a river and kept on the trail which also served as a road where a few passing trucks were transporting supplies for the ski resort we were hiking toward. It was mid-day at this point and the sun beating down with no coverage from trees was brutal. As we climbed higher we started to see patches of snow here and there to the edge of the trail. We also caught glimpses of a few marmots scurrying to and fro. As we rounded a corner chair lifts came into view surrounding a beautiful lake. The trail hiked along the edge of the resort and up a hill where we encountered our first obstacle: ~20-30 ft wide patch of snow across the trail with no bare patches to reach the other side and a steep slide down the side of the hill if we didn't make it. We decided the risk was too great and turned back to find another route.

We spoke to a guy working on the chair lifts and he pointed out a road that would take us to Jochpass and lead us to the trail to Engstlenalp. He mentioned there was a little bit of snow, but once we reach the top it could be clear down to our hut. Taking his advice we started on the new trail. We almost immediately came across a patch of snow, though this time not as steep terrain to traverse. It was approaching time for the anticipated thunderstorm to hit and dark clouds were rolling in so we picked up our pace while still attempting to keep our footing. Midway to the top we heard the first boom of thunder and watched lightning strike. We were scrambling uphill underneath the chair lift between snow and patches of grass. I was struggling a bit and ready for a break, but with the storm fast approaching I kept on. Taking up the rear, I clambered over the last bit of incline and finally settled in a small alcove for rubbage bins at a closed ski lodge where the rest of the group awaited. We were set to just wait out the storm in the alcove, but when Grant tried the door for the lodge it opened! We went into the lodge which was equipped with bathrooms, running water, free WiFi, a TV, fully stocked bar and fridge. We were set if we needed to camp out there overnight. Fortunately, after some more lightning, thunder, and hail the storm passed.

We headed out into the open again, the clouds were parting and we found the trail shortly afterward. We made our way downhill and finally reached our hut. We were shown to our room and as we headed to dinner at the restaurant we were greeted by a Swiss couple playing alpenhorns with the sun setting behind them. A perfect end to our Swiss hiking adventure.